Waterfall Tank
Hi there! Someday, this pattern will become a *real* pattern with all the sizes (I'm working on it asap!). For now, I invite you to use these extremely rough notes as a jumping off point or framework for your own tank, sweater, cardi or any creative project that is calling you! This tank was inspired by our Sunwoven Tank pattern and by a sample a friend shared with me while traveling last month (Shout out to Karen L. in Telluride!!!). It is knit bottom up and seamed along the side seams. I used the Kitchener stitch to join the shoulders. If you have any questions, feel free to ask away in the blog comments. I'd suggest using this basic framework as a tool to experiment with what you would like most to make! If you have any Qs, let me know in the comments. I did not list out what the abbreviations all mean however a quick google search should resolve that or feel free to ask me below.
Materials:
Yarn: Waterfall, I used three skeins for this project in colorway Celestial (I love it in this yarn but you could consider Wildflower too or you could mix the two together!). I wet blocked my gauge swatch and sample. This yarn will grow a little in wet blocking so I suggesting blocking your swatch to make sure you get the correct gauge. We have a disclaimer on the Waterfall yarn that the dye *could* bleed. That has not been my experience but can happen. Checking and washing your gauge swatch is a good way to test this.
Needles: US 19 / 16mm, circular needle 32" in length (this design is knit flat though so choose a cord length that works for you. Straight needles will also work)
Hook (optional): Size N crochet hook for single crochet edging
Gauge: 6.5 stitches and 8 rows in stockinette stitch, wet blocked.
Size of my sample: 20.5" Body Length and 33" Bust Circumference
Fit note: The fabric is very loose, stretchy and drapey. I have a size 35" bust and this sample fits well across with chest with a fair amount looseness. So it's bigger when worn than what the measurement suggests! Because this is a viscose ribbon yarn, it behaves DIFFERENTLY than a typical yarn. Testing on your gauge swatch is highly recommended.
Pattern:
Knit two panels like this, exactly the same!
Cast on 28 stitches.
Ribbing Row: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Repeat Ribbing Row one more time.
Row 1 (Right Side): Sl1 wyb, k to end.
Row 2 (Wrong Side): Sl1 wyf, p to end.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until your piece measures 9.5" from cast on edge, ending on a Wrong Side Row, Row 2.
Armhole Shaping Row 1: Sl1 wyb, ssk, k to three stitch remain, k2tog, k1. 2 stitches decreased.
Armhole Shaping Row 2: Sl1 wyf, p to end.
Repeat Armhole Shaping Rows 1 and 2 two more times. 4 stitches decreased, 22 stitches remain.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 from above (stockinette rows) two more times (four rows total).
Divide for Right and Left Straps: K8, bind of 6, k to end. 6 stitches decreased. Do not cut yarn. Leave it attached to work.
Put the first 8 stitches you worked on scrap yarn or a holder, for the Front side, these are the Front Left strap stitches. For the Back side these are the Back Right stitches.
Work the last 8 stitches you knit. For the Front side, these are the Front Right stitches. For the Back side, these are the Back Left stitches.
Wearer Front Right / Back Left Neckline Shaping + Short Rows:
Short Row 1: Sl1 wyf, p to end.
Short Row 2: Sl1 wyb, k5, turn.
Short Row 3: GSR (German Short Row), p to end.
Short Row 4: Sl1 wyb, k3, turn.
Short Row 5: Repeat Short Row 3.
Short Row 6: Sl1 wyb, k to end, resolving all DS (double stitches) as you go.
Strap Row 7: Sl1 wyf, p to end.
Strap Row 8: Sl1 wyb, ssk, K to end. 1 stitch decreased, 7 stitches remain.
Strap Row 9: Sl1 wyf, p to end.
Place these 7 stitches on scrap yarn or a holder to work later.
Place the other strap stitches back onto your working needle. These stitches are for the Front Left and the Back Right.
Wearer Front Left / Back Right Neckline Shaping + Short Rows:
Short Row 1: Sl1 wyf, p5, turn.
Short Row 2: GSR (German Short Row), k to end.
Short Row 3: Sl1 wyf, p3, turn.
Short Row 4: Repeat Short Row 2.
Short Row 5: Sl1 wyf, p to end, resolving all DS (double stitches) as you go.
Short Row 6: Sl1 wyb, k to end.
Strap Row 7: Sl1 wyf, p to end.
Strap Row 8: Sl1 wyb, to three stitches remain, k2tog, k1.1 stitch decreased, 7 stitches remain.
Strap Row 9: Sl1 wyf, p to end.
Place these 7 stitches on scrap yarn or a holder to work later.
Repeat for second tank side.
Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft your straps together, making sure to line them up correctly. If you're new to the Kitchener Stitch, I like this tutorial.
Use the Mattress Stitch to seam your side seams up. You'll begin at the bottom edge of your tank and end where the armhole shaping and decreases begin. If you like, you can us a similar colored worsted weight yarn to seam your side seams. I used waterfall and it worked just fine.
You could consider adding a single crochet edge to the neckline and armhole edges for a cleaner finish, it's totally up to you. I added this to the neckline only. I did not like the extra width the crochet edge added to my straps, so I left that off!
Then, weave in your ends and block. I did wet block my sample and I like the way it turned out but a simple steam block would be good too. This yarn will grow a little in washing, so it's a good idea to test a swatch first. It takes a long time to dry all the way. If you do get your tank totally wet, a fan on it might help it dry more quickly. I put mine outside to dry!
Please reach out if you need any help or have Q!